4 Pastry Chefs Who Are Redefining Parisian Desserts

While conventional macarons, eclairs, and mille-feuille will constantly be Paris’s calling cards, the city’s existing crop of hot-shot pastry chefs are concentrated on constructing show-stopping sweets without relying too greatly on refined sugar. The results are strong tastes achieved through increased level of acidity and bold flavor juxtapositions. Here are four of the city’s pastry chefs who are changing the method city thinks of dessert.

“Attaining ‘juste sucre’ permits one to delight in desserts without being overwhelmed by too much sugar,” Perret states. “When something is too sweet, you feel the need to have a glass of water after the dessert.

He utilizes sweetness moderately, often replacing refined sugar with honey or fruit reductions, and employs extreme caramelization to include depth to desserts. This is seen in Perret’s popular Entremets Madeleine, a light-as-air, extra-large sponge cake sweetened with chestnut honey in addition to his Crème Caramel, a dessert that achieves hearty tang thanks to salted and heavily caramelized sugars plus crisp, roasted almonds.
Francois Perret Ritz Paris Wild Blackberry Tart with Celery
Savory active ingredients, too, make less sweet desserts engaging. In Perret’s capable hands, the marriage of celery sorbet and a wild blackberry tart is somehow thrilling. Similarly dynamic is Le Chocolat Poivre et Sel, a fantastical take on an iced chocolate parfait, where the commingling of raspberry vinegar granite, fleur de sel, kampot pepper and 73 percent Jamaican chocolate yield complexity.

Perret’s commitment to pushing the limitations of taste is highlighted in Le dîner sucré-salé, a two times yearly supper event (the next one will be held on February 14, 2020) composed totally of unique sweet and savory mixes, a la hazelnut and parmesan meringue, grapefruit and cauliflower brioche, fennel yogurt and caramelized popcorn with Piquillo pepper jam.
Michael Bartocetti, Four Seasons Hotel George V.

Thirty-six-year-old Michael Bartocetti understands that standards of taste takes years, even decades to change. Thus, the Executive Pastry Chef at the Four Seasons Hotel George V describes his departure from too sweet sugary foods as “a development, not a revolution.” To coax maximum flavor from ingredients, say, vanilla beans, fennel or sudachi, he has fun with acidity and bitterness. “I use dairy items, particularly yogurt and fermented milks for a more acidic surface as well as coffee and malt (discovered in infused creams) to draw out the bitterness in a production.”.

Bartocetti’s newest production exhibits how he use fermentation to let raw active ingredients sing. A rainbow of fresh, marinaded citrus (cédrat lemon, caviar of finger lime, orange confit, grapefruit, grapefruit confit) is seasoned with sweetened rice cream and served alongside zest-flecked sake ice cream topped with a vinaigrette of olive oil, lime, lemon and pink pomelo.

For this year’s yule log, a nearly too-chic- to-eat tribute to the orchid, Bartocetti used Meyer lemon passion and quasi-bitter Tulakalum cacao from Belize to strike a balance with the dessert’s sweeter components, almond biscuit, hazelnut praline and clover infused cream.

Jessica Prealpato, Hôtel Plaza Athénée.

Seaweed? Dark beer? Barley crumble? Commemorated for her rogue approach to desserts, the 33-year-old head pastry chef (and the very first female to hold the title of World’s Best Pastry Chef by World’s 50 Best Restaurants ranking in 2019) at the hotel’s magnificent Alain Ducasse dining establishment follows an approach she calls “desseralité.” It’s a high-concept collision of dessert and naturalité that highlights the rawness of a product– think bitterness of beer, sharpness of persimmon, level of acidity of lemon– in both flavor and discussion.

Our lemon seaweed dessert, Citron niçois et algues kombu à l’estragon, highlights the level of acidity of the fresh lemon and the bitterness of its skin. She amplifies the natural sugars of fruit and includes sweet taste (refined sugar, honey or even birch water) only as a flavoring.
Julien Alvarez, Le Bristol.

” A gourmet dessert does not need to be sweet. Sugar likewise means enjoyment and taste. We need to find the ideal balance between the two,” states Julien Alvarez, the master of haute pâtisserie at Le Bristol. His bijou Ananas Victoria underscores this concept; it’s a dessert where lime, ginger, and enthusiasm fruit inject an acidic kick to the sweeter pineapple sorbet and cream.

Including aspects of standard culinary is an Alvarez trademark. Alba white truffle ice cream and rice pudding studded with hazelnuts, rice puffs and a cleaning of truffle shavings show an artistic stability in between sweet and tasty. Gastronomic sauces are another inspiration. Apple vinegar enlivens his Millefeuille Pomme, an assemblage of candied apple, cinnamon scented cream, quince, and celeriac layered in puff pastry with quince sorbet. Likewise, a smoked vanilla-laced milk emulsion is the aromatic piece de resistance behind Féves de Cacao, a dish of sea salt caramelized Guatemalan cacao nibs and ice cream presented in a dried cacao pod.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *