These Bakeries in Copenhagen Have Culinary Pedigrees Rooted in the World’s Best Kitchens

It’s a drizzly early morning in Copenhagen but the rain hasn’t discouraged individuals from forming a line outside of Juno the Bakery for kardemomme snurre (cardamom buns). Juno the Bakery in Copenhagen’s Osterbro area draws a routine crowd however still feels like a regional joint. This was exactly what Emil Glaser, a previous chef at Noma, had in mind when he opened the bakeshop in 2017.

” We knew we wanted to develop something that offered worth to our regional community. A bakery felt like an excellent location to start, so we simply jumped straight in,” stated Glaser. He wasn’t the only chef-turned-baker to unveil a neighborhood spot equipping baked items. Since then, the city has seen a considerable increase in chef-owned and -run pastry shops.
Copenhagen isn’t brand-new to baked items. On the contrary, the Danes have actually been eating dark rye and weinerbrød practically because the Viking Age. In Denmark, nearly every morning begins with a piece of sourdough topped with butter, jam, and cheese, or (on weekends) a spandauer (a pastry with vanilla cream). With bread and pastries being an essential part of the food culture, it was only a matter of time before the city invited a multitude of artisanal bakeries.
” We believe individuals are starting to long for much better sourdough bread– totally organic, naturally leavened, no crap,” said Jesper Gøtz, a previous sous chef at Copenhagen’s now-closed Restaurant 108. In addition to his colleagues Mia Boland and Sara Macedo, Gøtz opened Lille Bakery in a warehouse area on Refshaeløen island near the outskirts of Copenhagen (near Noma) in 2018. “We decided to open a place where we would all like to hang around which would likewise bring something positive to the neighborhood,” said Gøtz.

Inside the lofty glass-fronted bakeshop, long wood tables evoke a comfortable common feel. Locals roll in on their bikes and grab loaves of bread to go or pick up a cup of coffee and a warm slice of sourdough. On the menu, there’s everything from rye bread to sourdough buns to sausage rolls. They also have more significant meals like salted cod and tomato and stracciatella (which feature bread) but a company favorite is the Lille Alice, a donut (without a hole) cleaned with pink sugar and topped with a dollop of strawberry jam and milk cream, which tastes as good as it searches Instagram.

On the other side of Copenhagen in the Nørrebro district, chef Christian Puglisi opened Mirabelle, a dining establishment and bakeshop that begins the day with pastries and ends it with pasta. “Bread has a very unique position in the meal,” he stated.
It’s common to receive a basket of newly baked bread before or with a meal in Copenhagen, even at a Michelin-starred restaurant. In 2014, when Puglisi opened Mirabelle, he began concentrating on the bakery’s signature sourdough made from organic Øland wheat, grown and crushed simply 18 miles away at the bakeshop at Kornby Mølle. The bread is combined and enhanced by hand, and naturally fermented for 24 hours before entering into the oven for a long time at a high temperature. It’s certainly not an easy procedure but Puglisi is a stickler for quality. “Supermarkets and gas stations have actually successfully marketed bake-off breads produced in factories, which are sold at absurd rates,” he said. “They are impossible to take on. It appears like the general requirement is getting very polarized– very good in the luxury, and actually bad in the rest.”
Andersen & Maillard, a bakeshop and roastery not far from Mirabelle, is undoubtedly one of the “very good” ones. Opened by former Noma and Amass pastry chef Milton Abel with barista Hans Kristian Andersen in 2018, the café serves exceptional coffee alongside baked items. Abel stated he highly thinks that all these pastry shops are building a neighborhood instead of completing versus each other. “The unique thing about Copenhagen is the collective relationship that all the new bakeshops have with each other,” he said. “We are all moving our industry forward by continuing to produce [products] every day. We all share info and tips, and discuss what we are preparing to do in the future.”

Andersen & Maillard is the sort of bakeshop you might spend all day in, stooped over a laptop computer at one of the slick wood tables, drinking many coffees, and consuming the signature kouign amanns (a crispy, buttery pastry that looks like a croissant that has been baked in a muffin tin).
Hart Bageri, produced by the former head pastry chef at San Francisco’s Tartine, Richard Hart, and Noma co-founder René Redzepi, is another cherished bakeshop. Like many other chef-turned-bakers, Hart cooked for over a decade before he discovered his love for baking. As a transplant (although he has actually spent much of his life in San Francisco, he’s initially from London), among Hart’s most significant concerns after relocating to Copenhagen was making bread and pastries in tune with Danish tastes. “René [Redzepi] said to me, ‘you need to record the Danes with the rye bread,'” said Hart. “People in Denmark appear to like sour tastes a lot more, so I developed a miso rye, which is actually umami and tastes sort of like rye bread on steroids.”
The menu is ever-changing however the bakery likewise produces Danish favorites like tebirkes (a laminated pastry with a poppy seed crust) and spandauers. When you start making bread,” it’s common to end up being dedicated.

Emil Glaser of Juno the Bakery agreed. “The fact that most of us opened [bakeshops] within a year [of one another] is more of a coincidence. I guess a number of us felt we had something to contribute to a city that’s already full of so much excellent food,” he said.

It’s clear that Copenhagen is home to a few of the world’s leading restaurants. With a wealth of bakeshops to match, you do not have to wait up until supper to enjoy a best slice of sourdough.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *