These Bakeries in Copenhagen Have Culinary Pedigrees Rooted in the World’s Best Kitchens

It’s a drizzly morning in Copenhagen however the rain hasn’t hindered individuals from forming a line outside of Juno the Bakery for kardemomme snurre (cardamom buns). Juno the Bakery in Copenhagen’s Osterbro area draws a regular crowd however still feels like a local joint. This was precisely what Emil Glaser, a former chef at Noma, had in mind when he opened the bakery in 2017.
A bakeshop felt like a great place to begin, so we just jumped directly in,” stated Glaser. Since then, the city has seen a significant increase in chef-owned and -run bakeries.
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Copenhagen isn’t new to baked items. On the contrary, the Danes have actually been consuming dark rye and weinerbrød basically given that the Viking Age. In Denmark, practically every early morning starts with a slice of sourdough topped with butter, jam, and cheese, or (on weekends) a spandauer (a pastry with vanilla cream). With bread and pastries being an integral part of the food culture, it was only a matter of time before the city invited a variety of artisanal bakeries.
” We think people are beginning to yearn for better sourdough bread– completely organic, naturally leavened, no crap,” stated Jesper Gøtz, a former sous chef at Copenhagen’s now-closed Restaurant 108. Along with his co-workers Mia Boland and Sara Macedo, Gøtz opened Lille Bakery in a storage facility space on Refshaeløen island near the outskirts of Copenhagen (close to Noma) in 2018. “We decided to open a location where we would all like to spend time which would also bring something positive to the neighborhood,” said Gøtz.

Inside the lofty glass-fronted bakeshop, long wood tables stimulate a comfortable common feel. On the menu, there’s everything from rye bread to sourdough buns to sausage rolls.
On the other side of Copenhagen in the Nørrebro district, chef Christian Puglisi opened Mirabelle, a restaurant and pastry shop that starts the day with pastries and ends it with pasta. “Bread has a very unique position in the meal,” he said.
It’s common to receive a basket of newly baked bread before or with a meal in Copenhagen, even at a Michelin-starred dining establishment. In 2014, when Puglisi opened Mirabelle, he started focusing on the pastry shop’s signature sourdough made from natural Øland wheat, grown and grated simply 18 miles away at the bakeshop at Kornby Mølle. “Supermarkets and gas stations have actually effectively marketed bake-off breads produced in factories, which are sold at outrageous prices,” he said.
Andersen & Maillard, a pastry shop and roastery not far from Mirabelle, is certainly one of the “really excellent” ones. Abel said he strongly believes that all these bakeries are building a community rather than contending against each other. “The special thing about Copenhagen is the collective relationship that all the new pastry shops have with each other,” he said.

Andersen & Maillard is the type of bakery you might spend all the time in, hunched over a laptop computer at one of the slick wood tables, drinking countless coffees, and eating the signature kouign amanns (a crispy, buttery pastry that looks like a croissant that has been baked in a muffin tin).
Hart Bageri, created by the former head pastry chef at San Francisco’s Tartine, Richard Hart, and Noma co-founder René Redzepi, is another beloved pastry shop. Like many other chef-turned-bakers, Hart prepared for over a decade before he found his love for baking. As a transplant (although he has actually invested much of his life in San Francisco, he’s originally from London), among Hart’s most significant top priorities after moving to Copenhagen was making bread and pastries in tune with Danish tastes. “René [Redzepi] stated to me, ‘you need to capture the Danes with the rye bread,'” stated Hart. “People in Denmark appear to like sour tastes a lot more, so I developed a miso rye, which is really umami and tastes sort of like rye bread on steroids.”The menu is ever-changing however the bakery also produces Danish favorites like tebirkes (a laminated pastry with a poppy seed crust) and spandauers. “We are taking a look at what Danes desire and then making the very best versions of them,” said Hart. “Working as a chef, you are continuously on the go. As a baker, you’re not. As soon as you begin making bread,” it’s typical to end up being dedicated.

Emil Glaser of Juno the Bakery concurred. “The fact that most of us opened [bakeries] within a year [of one another] is more of a coincidence. I guess a number of us felt we had something to add to a city that’s already full of a lot great food,” he stated.

It’s clear that Copenhagen is home to a few of the world’s leading dining establishments. Fortunately, with a wealth of bakeshops to match, you do not have to wait until supper to enjoy a perfect slice of sourdough.

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